CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF LANDSCAPE PLANTS

How To Care For Landscape Plants

The most frequent request that I get when designing landscapes is for low-maintenance plants. The dread of maintaining these plants and reduction of costs is significant. What do you do once these plants are installed?

After your shrubs or trees are planted, there are several important things to remember. Young transplanted ornamentals need special attention during the first year in their new location. Some trees may need to be staked, and all plants should be properly watered and mulched.

Staking Trees

Trees planted in open areas subject to strong winds should be staked or guyed.

Stake all trees that have a diameter of 21/2 inches or less with 2- x 2-inch stakes. They should be long enough for you to drive them 2 feet into the ground and still reach mid-height of the tree. Soft twine, water hose, strips of webbing, or soft rope may be used to tie the tree to the stakes. If you use wire, pad it at the point of contact with the tree. Do not leave wire on the tree more than 1 year or long enough to cause girdling.

Guy (stake) all trees over 21/2 inches in diameter with three or four guys equally spaced around the tree. Use two strands of No. 12 wire. Cover the wire with rubber hose or heavy cloth padding at points of contact. Run wires from the trunk about 8 feet above the ground at an angle of about 45° to stakes driven in the ground Trees should be staked so as to allow some movement of the trunk. Trunk movement allows the tree to increase in taper and develop a strong trunk.

Watering

When you plant, in your initial process it is important to remove the air pockets from the soil around the plant. A good way to do this is to stick a running hose into the soil around the plants root ball and let the soil collapse, this process removes the air. After the water has subsided, square the plant up to the correct posture and then proceed to back-fill around the plant.

After completion of planting. Soil characteristics and condition of the plants are the main guides to watering. Under most weather conditions, one good watering, saturating the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches every 5 to 7 days, is enough. After the first year, most landscape plants will naturally obtain water from the soil and not need your watering. However, there are cases where extra water is needed as in periods of drought or when fast growth is desired.

When watering, keep these points in mind.

1. Apply water slowly so it can soak into the soil. A 50-foot hose and sprinkler will generally take about 2 1/2 hours to apply the amount of water needed for a 1,000-square-foot area.

2. Wet soil thoroughly to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Light watering encourages shallow root development. Then, if the shallow watering is neglected a day or so in a sudden period of hot weather, plants may be damaged.

3. Avoid too much water; it leaches plant nutrients from the soil and may drown the plant’s root system.

4. Avoid setting plants so close to a wall that the gutter or overhanging roof blocks natural rainfall.

5. Plants grow less with a lack of water.

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Mulch

Mulching offers several advantages over clean cultivation (no mulch). The greatest is conservation of soil moisture. Evaporation of water from the soil is greatly reduced when the soil is protected from direct rays of the sun and moving air. Also, rain falling on the mulch does not pack the soil surface. With less crusty soil, water that is applied penetrates the soil more easily, thus erosion is eliminated.

A second important advantage of mulch is the control of weeds. Using mulch greatly reduces the need for weeding. If you also use an herbicide that kills weeds before germination, the benefit in weed control will be even greater.

Controlling soil temperatures is another advantage. High summer temperatures may injure beneficial microorganisms as well as the roots near the surface of the soil. Maintaining lower and more uniform soil temperatures in summer will promote bacterial activity in the soil. In winter, frost penetration is less likely to occur where mulching is practiced.

Evergreens must absorb moisture in the winter as well as summer. Therefore, winter mulch may prevent the soil water from freezing and becoming unavailable to plants.

Organic matter used as mulch can improve soil structure and tilth. As it decays the material works down into the topsoil. Decaying mulch also adds nutrients to the soil. Mulch is much better for the health of a plant than being surrounded by grass, which competes for nutrients and water. Grass roots have chemicals that can leach and stunt the root growth of desirable landscape plants.

These advantages of mulching far outweigh the disadvantages, but there are a few. First, the cost and unavailability of some materials can be a drawback to large-scale mulching.

When using sawdust as mulch, nitrogen starvation sometimes occurs. However, this is easily corrected by using additional nitrogen when needed.

Heavy mulching over a period of years may result in a buildup of soil over the crown area of plants. This condition is especially harmful to camellias. After the first 3 years, it may be advisable to rake off the old mulch before applying a new layer to prevent the roots from becoming too deeply buried. Just click this link If you need mulch, we can help you!

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Fertilizer

Ornamental plants require nutrients for healthy growth. Soils that are not well fertilized seldom contain sufficient plant nutrients.

Different soils contain varying amounts of nutrients. Therefore, one soil or area may require larger amounts of fertilizer than another to grow plants well. The major nutrient needs for landscape plants in Alabama are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizers are available to supply these needs. For example, 100 pounds of 12-4-6 fertilizer contains 12 pounds of nitrogen, 4 pounds of phosphorous, and 6 pounds of potassium.

Refer to your soil test report to determine the amounts of lime and fertilizer to add to your soil. Keep in mind that a soil test is needed every 2 to 3 years. These reports will allow you to keep your soil at the proper fertility level. For example, the phosphorus level can build up to an excessive amount if a complete fertilizer (such as 8-8-8) is applied every year. If this is the case, a fertilizer with little or no phosphorus (such as 15-0-15) will be recommended. Soil fertility levels cannot be determined by looking at the plant.

Chlorosis of plants is a condition that sometimes can be corrected by adjusting fertilizer rates. The leaf areas between the veins become a light green or yellow while the veins remain a darker green. In extreme cases, the entire leaf may become yellow. This chlorotic condition occurs when the chlorophyll (green coloring matter) in the plant fails to develop normally.

Chlorosis can also be caused by poor drainage, high soil pH, or too much phosphorus. If soil tests indicate high phosphate levels, use a fertilizer containing a low level of phosphorus. High phosphorus levels often cause iron in the soil to be less available to plants. In such cases, you can apply iron to the plant leaves as a spray or to the root system as a soil drench. You may have to adjust the pH to correct this problem. The soil test will indicate what steps you need to take.

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Pruning

Pruning is cutting out unwanted growth to make a plant develop or respond in a desired manner.

A. Cut small branches just above leaf nodes.

B. Cut limbs over 1 inch in diameter just beyond the swollen branch collar of a larger limb or trunk.

C. Examples of proper pruning methods.

D. Remove long azalea limbs back inside the plant.

E. Pinch out tips of new azalea growth to induce branching.

F. Prune crape myrtle back 1 foot off ground level for compact, heavy growth.

G. To produce taller crape myrtle plants, cut out only small branches, and canopy 8”-12” inches.

H. Pruning boxwood straight across top will produce unnatural shape. Prune entire boxwood to produce rounded effect.

I. Hedges should be pruned so that the base of the plant is wider than the top.

You prune plants to produce more or better blooms and fruit, to develop or maintain a desired shape or size, to remove older stems and encourage vigorous young ones to take their place, to remove diseased or seriously injured parts, to balance root and branch systems, or to remove dead wood or wood that is winter-killed.

Shrubs often cannot go without pruning if they are to serve their intended purpose in the landscape. Except for a few dwarf or extremely slow-growing plants, prune all shrubs regularly or as needed–usually every year or two in areas where neatness is important. For all practical purposes, shrubs and small trees can be pruned at one of two periods, during dormancy (before growth begins in spring) or immediately after flowering.

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Spring Flowering Shrubs

Since blooms on these plants are formed on the previous year’s growth, they should be pruned in the spring after flowering. Generally, pruned plants will have larger flowers than non-pruned ones. The following spring flowering shrubs should be pruned in a selective manner to maintain size and promote growth:

Summer Flowering Shrubs

Blooms on plants in this category are produced on new spring growth. Therefore, pruning should be done during the dormant season, usually in the early spring before growth begins. Shrubs in this group include the following:

Broad-leaved Evergreen Shrubs

These shrubs can be pruned slightly at any time of the year to shape the plant. However, plants that go into the dormant period with their flower buds already formed should be pruned immediately after flowering. Those that produce their flowers on new wood may be pruned anytime during the dormant period. Some of the plants with these general pruning requirements are as follows:

Coniferous Evergreens

Shrubs in this group should be pruned shortly before or just as growth begins in the spring. Also, prune roots to keep the growth of the plant in a reasonable range. The following plants should be pruned in this manner:

Tools

You can’t prune properly without the right tools. Pruning tools are specialized–adapted to a particular type or work. Select pruning tools made of good steel and always keep them sharp.

One of the first tools you will buy is a hand pruner. Other tools include long-handled pruners (loppers), hedge shears, pole pruners, and pruning saws. Wound dressings or “tree paint” offer no healing powers or identifiable benefit to a tree wound.

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Pest Control

Insects and diseases must be controlled to grow trees and shrubs successfully. Some pests attack roots; others feed on leaves and stems or damage flowers. One of the most important steps in the control of insects and diseases is to prevent infestation in the beginning. Buy well-grown plants from a reputable nursery. Inspect plants frequently for signs of diseases and insects.

Most weed control around the home is the hand pulling method. However, the best control is a good mulching program with hand pulling as needed.

If you prefer to use herbicides for weed control, contact your county Extension office to find out what is available. Chemical control of weeds for the homeowner is often quite expensive.

Another concern of using chemicals is that they must be evenly distributed at the recommended rate to prevent injury to your plants. Always follow the label!

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Care of Newly Planted Ornamental’s

Watering

Regular watering is critical during establishment. Keep the root system moist, but not too wet, for the first six to eight weeks after planting. The amount of water and frequency of application depend on the soil type and plant. Trees and shrubs may require watering twice a week when there is no rain. Annuals and ground covers may need daily watering during establishment. Let soil moisture be your guide for watering frequency.

An automatic irrigation system is one of the smartest investments you can make in your landscape. It ensures your lawn, gardens, and plantings receive consistent, efficient watering exactly when they need it—helping them grow healthier while reducing water waste and eliminating the guesswork. If you’re considering upgrading or installing a new irrigation system, our team can design and install a setup tailored specifically to your property’s needs. Reach out to schedule a consultation—we’d be glad to help.

Fertilization

There are many slow-release fertilizers on the market that feed plants from six to 12 months with one application. Slow-release fertilizers generally cost more than general-purpose fertilizers, but they require fewer applications. Follow application guidelines on the bag or container.

If you use general-purpose fertilizers, use light applications for newly-planted ornamentals during the first growing season. For shrubs less than 12 inches tall, apply one level teaspoon of a 12 to 16 percent nitrogen source (12-4-8 or 16-4-8) or on level tablespoon of an 8 to 10 percent nitrogen source (8-8-8 or 10-10-10), three times during the growing season (March through September). Give trees two tablespoons of a 12 to 16 percent nitrogen source for each inch of trunk diameter three times during their first growing season. Broadcast fertilizers evenly over an area extending six inches from the trunk to one foot beyond the branch spread or canopy.

Newly-planted ground covers benefit from 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 fertilizer applied at one pound per 100 square feet of bed area three times during the growing season. When broadcasting fertilizers over the top of the foliage, be sure the foliage is dry, and water soon after application.

If you need assistance with your landscape plants please feel free to call us at (732)-691-8654, push the button below, or contact us through email at Info@ndl-designs.com

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